Route Feedback: Southern Slabs
Posted by: Ken Daykin, 05.06.2024

The traditional way of climbing Southern Slabs is an enjoyable climb with a historical flavour to it (1920). There is a good view of Woodhouse’s Pinnacle and anyone climbing the extreme testpieces thereabouts, from the fist belay. The traverse is particularly fine and you get a feeling of the pioneers feeling their way up the buttress. It is possibly better if started up Lazarus, but that is personal choice. I am therefore rather disappointed that in the new guidebook (2023) only the direct variation is included. This I think is an error and will allow the historical route to slip from view and climbers attention. The long thought provoking traverse being the real meat of the route.
Guidebook writers seem to like to reduce routes to as few pitches as possible these days. Giving the impression that we are all in a hurry to ‘get-it-done’ and move on to the next route, instead of savouring the experience.

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