Route Feedback: Misty Slabs
Posted by: Ken Daykin, 25.06.2024

I beleive the photo topo on page 153 of Dow and Coppermines 2023 shows the original start for the route, not the start described in the guidebook (see attached image).
The location of the start is not very clearly described either. See my attempt below.
The holds at the start of pitch 1 are not large but they are positive, helping to give confidence.
Pitch 2 does not start with a crack but with an open blocky groove.
Finally some may prefer to take a belay part way up pitch 2, just below a steepening.
My Description
Misty Slabs VD **
An enjoyable and clean quality climb, which can be found 100m or so up and left of Original Route, the other side of the broad grassy gully splitting the crag. The original route started in a bay and traversed the mossy slabs rightwards for 15m to reach steeper, cleaner rock. Here it is described with a better, cleaner, more direct start.
Recommended start: From just below the left hand side of the mossy slabs, walk 8m or so up a grassy rake to arrive at two large blocks sitting on grass ledges.
1 40m From the left hand block climb up beside a crack to join the original route at the steeper, cleaner rock. Traverse diagonally right and then go up to easier angled slabs. Climb these and go up lefwards to a stance below an open, blocky groove.
2 30m Climb the groove and then continue up the arete on the right. There is an optional belay at a shoulder just below a steepening.
Descent: A descent can be made leftwards by going up and then left, but this requires careful route finding and takes some time. A safer descent maybe to go up and right and then to descend rightwards from the top of the crag (above Napoleon and Trio).

On the image below, the red line shows the start described in the guidebook.

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