1) 40m 4b. Start as for Moving Finger Grooves, crossing the juniper heather Ledge until you’re positioned below a prominent corner crack.
Here the climbing begins by climbing the fine wall left of the crack, the crack itself is well protected and should be followed until if peters out and joins a small right hand shelve. Step left and commit to the wall before awkward moves gain a pull up onto a heather ledge. Possible belay if drag is present from protecting the step across the first heather ledge. Now embark on a bold, right rising traverse, which gradually gives way to a step right and easier grassy steps. These steps lead directly to the second V-shaped corner crack, where you’ll find a solid nut belay stance.
2) 30m 4b. Climb the corner crack direct on good runners until a forks out right leads to technical climbing in and out of the crack line. Escape the crack by pulling left onto a sloping shelf. Continue on broken ground to a boulder belay.
Shown by blue line on daigram below.
Commodus Corner 70m VS 4b ☆☆
Posted by: John Brooks, 27.09.202421.09.2024, John Brooks & Daniel Parsons