Route Feedback: Evening Wall
Posted by: Ken Daykin, 27.09.2024

Evening Wall Page 150 in Langdale (2013). The description could be more helpful:
On P1 the shallow corner is better described as a ‘heathery groove’, this is less misleading and is how it was described in earlier guidebooks.
The mention of moving up to a stance on pitch 2 of Oak Tree Wall is unnecessary (these references to other routes are often more confusing than useful and usually only mean something to those who have recently climbed the route referred to. That is the guidebook writer. In this case confusion is reinforced by the fact that on the diagram, page 149, the lines for the two routes do not meet at any point.)
For pitch 2 the statement “….traverse left again to a good ledge” is wrong and misleading.
For pitch 3 The statement “It is possible to avoid the polished rock by making a bold semi-hand traverse” Is misleading. This traverse looks very difficult and in my opinion will lead the climber onto The Patella Pinch HVS. So I think this paragraph should be removed in future guidebooks. If it is desired to avoid the ‘Strenuously delicate moves..’ You can: Climb up above the belay and then move right to join the arete.
My offering of an improved description.
1 11m Climb the slab rightwards to enter and climb a heathery groove. Step right and then move up to a small stance and belay.
2 15m Climb up 4m to a ledge (alternative belay) and then traverse easily left for 4m to a short steep groove. Climb this, over a bulge, to a good belay by large blocks.
3 21m Strenuously delicate moves lead up and right onto the exposed arete, which then leads to the top on good holds.

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