The pillar to the right of Sheol’s first pitch and the cracked wall right of the upper pitches of The Black Widow form the substance of this good but rather intimidating route. Start from the stance at the top of the first pitch on North Climb (10m).
1. 20m 5b Traverse left on grass and climb hollow stacked flakes to a groove which leads to a ledge under an overhanging hand-jam crack. Climb the crack (well protected by Camalots 3 and 4) to grass and a chockstone/spike belay.
2. 20m 4b Step right and climb a short rib to grass and a junction with North-East Climb. Follow this up a chimney/groove and belay up left under the arête of Tapestry.
3. 35m 5b Continually interesting (read tricky!) and with spaced protection. Climb downwards 2m then traverse a mossy slab to gain a cracked wall. Go rightwards across this to the jagged arête and climb the cracked wall and/or arête above to a point where the arête must be left and sustained climbing up cracks in the wall gradually eases. Take a stance just below a block on the ledge system above.
4. 10m 4c Climb on to the block and climb a deep V-groove just right of the arête above. This ends with no belay after 10m but a further 20m of scrambling up grass leads rightwards, across Stony Gully, to a good belay at the top of North Climb.
Pictures: 1. The line of Cyclotron in relation to the other routes in this area. 2. Stephen Reid having a breather before tackling the overhanging jamming crack on pitch 1. Photo: Chris King. 3. Chris King starting the most sustained section of pitch 3. Photo: Stephen Reid.
