Little of this is new. The initial groove was climbed, probably by Harry Kelly, prior to 1923 and the first wall of the upper pitch is the 8 foot drop of the early version of Slab and Notch in reverse, and often climbed in Victorian days, whilst the remainder of the pitch, though not described in the guide, showed signs of having been climbed before. Start just to the right of the entrance of Great Chimney at a short groove below a huge niche in the wall above.
1 45m (4c). Climb the groove, and more easily up rightwards to a large spike. Go boldly up the wall above to good runners in a crack and make a tenuous traverse leftwards towards the left arête, before climbing straight up. Easy juniper covered slabs lead to a Christmas tree belay on the Steep Grass of Great Chimney.
2 40m (4a). At the top of the Steep Grass is a short chockstone chimney: some 10m down and left of this, climb the wall to a junction with Slab and Notch Climb. Above is a groove/niche: climb into it, moving the left at the top to join the final part of The Arête, up which the climb finishes.
The photo shows Tony Daly on the traverse of the first pitch.
