Fear and Loafing 36m HVS 5a ☆☆
Posted by: Martin Scrowston, 05.11.201702.11.2017, M Scrowston, PC Bennett. The walls and groove at the right hand side of Armalite Wall give a very fine climb. Start from a pedestal ledge 4m right and lower than Armalite. Climb the steep wall above the ledge pulling through the overlap. A step right gives access to a shallow groove, follow this to a small overhang, move left to ascend the impending wall via excellent hand holds. Finish up thin cracks on the left side of the arête.
A good find, amazing that this route was not climbed thirty or more years ago.
Repeated this in early December and agree that it is an excellent find – in fact, possibly the best pitch of its grade in the valley for some years and worth 3 stars for me. Bold but straightforward where it looks hard at the start and at the upper overhangs, technical and thought-provoking up the groove inbetween – interesting throughout. Well done Martin and Paul.
Climbed this with three close friends on January 19th, 2020. We all agreed that it’s a great line, giving varied and enjoyable climbing and worth two or three stars in anyone’s book – a great find.
Personally, I agree with the HVS 5a grade and thought it harder and far better quality than Prometheus (HVS 5a **) round the corner, and at least as good, though possibly slightly easier than, Holly Tree Direct (HVS 5a ***).