Excellent climbing – a companion route to Lepton but a complete contrast in style. Microwires are very useful on pitch 2. Start as for Boson, just right of Tower Postern, below a short square-cut groove.
1 32m (4c). Climb the square-cut groove and slabby rock above for 10 metres to a hanging flake – avoid it by stepping right into a short groove and up to a ledge. Continue up the fine corner to a small grass ledge and climb the thin crack above to belay under the arête on the right.
2 35m (5a). Descend grass for 3 metres to the left edge of the slabby left wall of the huge corner. Make tricky moves up the left arête to a ledge and traverse left along it to jammed blocks in a corner. Climb the corner and offwidth crack above (junction with Lepton) to a narrow grass ledge. Follow a thin crack up the wall above until it peters out, whereupon bold moves out left and up lead to a fine position on the arête. Further balancey climbing attains an easing in a scoop and thence a belay on a ledge. A very good pitch.
3 40m (4a). Traverse right on grass, overcome a short wall and traverse right on grass again to the foot of a stunning rock tower. Climb the arête on huge holds and continue more easily on excellent rock to the top of the Shamrock. (This last pitch may be as for Tower Postern or it could be that that route takes the rib further left – it is really hard to say looking at old descriptions and diagrams. However, it is an excellent pitch on tremendous rock and makes a fitting finish.)
Photos: 1. Chris King on the superb corner of pitch 1.
2. Chris King nearing the crux of pitch 2.
3. Chris King starting the arete of pitch 3.
4. The line of Hadron in comparison with the surrounding routes.
5. The line taken by pitch 2 of Hadron in comparison with the surrounding routes.
