Jimmy Hill's Blues 20m E4 5c ☆☆☆
Posted by: Ian Cooksey, 20.06.202020.06.2020, K Phizaclea Climb the photogenic arête right of the offwidth. Start up the wall in order to place a small wire, bold. Traverse right on to the arête in a great position (small wires), climb this to a bold but straight forward finish.
15m might be more accurate!
This is probably the same arête as CSI, a route I climbed in September 1999. Started on the right, moving left to the arête after placing a wire .
So FA?
Rick Graham Ted Rogers sept 99.
Bold start no wire until you’re well up the arête. Sounds like a different route. What grade did you give your route at the time?
E3 5c, I think, details posted on old frcc site and/or given to guidebook team.
Might be same finishing arête but gained from right rather than left as Keith’s route.
Just read an email from Keith , his description should say move left not right, so there is only one route up the arête.
Mentioning this now because from the ground the unclimbed left side start does fit the description frightenly well but I surmise would be dangerously harder than E4 5c.
Also I had a pre placed wire so Keith most likely did the FA without insitu gear. The finish is not as bold as Keith suggests, he missed a funky inverted hex 1 on cord, nothing else would fit, now recleaned.
Excellent route BTW, could have been the inspiration for the small but perfectly formed phrase.