Rather indifferent in its lower half, this route has a very good finish. Start below a vague rib 6m right of the block of Juniper Buttress. (J.B.)
1. 26m 4c. Climb the rib where it eases, then traverse left using a good flame just above a prominent roof, then continue left to the left arête. Climb this directly to the blocky ledge on J.B.
2. 12m 4c. Pull up the wall on the right to stand on a small spike. Follow a vague groove right of the crack on J.B. to pull onto a ledge using a wedged flake – it is evidently quite solid as we all pulled on it! Belay just above on J.B.
3. 24m 4c. climb directly up the left side of the wall behind, aiming for two small grooves which lead directly to the big recessed belay on J.B.
4. 18m 5a. An excellent pitch. Follow the thin seam in the block above to a ledge, then the thin continuation crack to the top.