A direct line up the crag from the start of North Climb. Although from below it appears somewhat grubby the climbing is surprisingly good and worth doing in a dry spell. Start from the top of pitch 1 of North Climb. Quite low in the grade.
1 25m (4b). Climb the left rib of the groove of North Climb to a ledge. Traverse horizontally round left into a broken groove and then step up right onto a grass ledge. Climb a groove on the right to exit right onto grass. Step back left across another groove and thence to a slab which leads to grass on the left and a pinnacle/chockstone belay.
2 50m (5b). A good pitch. Step right, climb up to gain a short rib and follow this to its top and an exit left onto grass. Pull out horizontally rightwards into a niche and climb out of this on its right to the foot of a groove (taken by Sheol pitch 2). Traverse horizontally left round the arête to the foot of a V-chimney/groove and follow it directly to a very steep exit at its top (Sheol joins this groove a third of the way up but then quits it on the right). Belay immediately.
3 20m (4c). Make a rising traverse rightwards and up a groove, stepping right into a cleaner groove, to gain the foot of the narrow chimney taken by the top pitch of Savage Grooves. Stride out left onto a grass ledge and climb the steep cracked wall. Belay immediately.
60m of heathery scrambling up and then slightly leftwards leads to a way off under Great Chimney.
Notes: The upper part of pitch 1 had been climbed by Reid and C King as a variation start to NE Climb earlier this year. Sheol climbs about one third of the main groove of pitch 2. Pitch 3 had been climbed by Davison and N Kekus on the first winter ascent of Savage Gully but had not previously been climbed in summer. The route was named after the party rescued a crag-fast lamb shortly after the ascent.
Photos: 1 Brian Davison on the long groove of pitch 2.
2 Brian Davison on the final moves of pitch 3.
3 Lamb rescue in progress!
4 Route diagram.
