This route is a sort of North Climb Direct, and is good climbing. The offwidth crack is great fun.
1 & 2. 35m. As for North Climb to the foot of Savage Gully on the left and Twisting Chimney on the right.
3. 24m 5a. Climb a few metres up Savage Gully, to gain the offwidth splitting the wall and squirm up it (enormous cam useful but not essential). At its top move up 3m to a small ledge on Akhanaton.
4. 26m 5b. Climb the cracked arete and then continue up the arete above in a series of bold balancy moves till it eases and leads to a stance just right of the Nose.
5. 5m 5b. As for the Nose to the corner. Struggle up this direct, via a huge block.
Pitch 5 first climbed by Chris King, Stephen Reid 25th September 2003.
Pictures: (1) The line of the route. (2) Pete Winterbottom on pitch 3. (3) Pete Winterbottom on pitch 4. (4) Pete Winterbottom and Tony Daly on pitch 5.
