North Climb – 1918 Variation VS (1918).
A quite bold way direct to the Nose from the foot of the Stomach Traverse.
See Gable and Pillar (2007) page 243
4. 26m 4b. Climb 2m to where the Stomach Traverse bends right and hand traverse left and go up an awkward chimney (as for Proton) to slabs. Traverse left to the left arete then make a rising traverse rightwards until steep moves up lead to more slabs. Move round left to the arete and climb a groove to easy ground and a belay just right of the Nose.
A contemporary note on this impressive variation has only recently come to light. A very good lead for the time – Weekes was only 17 years old. The name of the person who wrote the note and was also on the climb is unfortunately not known.
Repeated by Tony Daly and Stephen Reid, 22.6.22.
Photos: (1) The line of the pitch. (2) Tony Daly on the (second?) ascent.
