Mirror, Mirror…, West Face of Low Man, Pillar Rock (p269)
Climbed this again yesterday with Luke Jones who led the second pitch. He climbed it two or three feet to the left of where we originally went and found an excellent micro-cam placement (Yellow WC Zero) just above and left of a tiny overlap. Not far above this is the good small spike mentioned in the description. Climbed this way reduces the fear factor considerably and the rock is cleaner. Not really a new variation as his right hand and foot were using holds that our left hands and feet had used, but definitely a better way of doing the climb. We felt the pitch grades should be 5b, 5a, – and the route which is on fantastic clean rough rock throughout is now worth three stars. Martin Dale had also mentioned a micro cam placement so presumably went the same way.
Pitch 2 in any future new guide should now read: “… Climb boldly straight up the wall above aiming for a tiny overlap (good micro cam just above and left of this). Surmount the overlap and climb past a small spike runner to a steeper headwall which is overcome directly to gain a crevasse stance.
Stephen Reid
Repeated this climb yesterday with Martin Armitage and led both pitches this time. The hidden crack by the overlap on pitch 2 accepted both a yellow Wild Country Zero Cam and a black Totem Cam. It is likely you could get a wire in this crack. This pitch was 5a.
The first pitch felt like 5b for a move but it was quite cold and the rock was slightly damp in places. On the first ascent the crux moves were foot traversed but we hand traversed.
Overall we felt the grade should drop to E1 5b, 5a, – due to the good gear discovered on pitch 2, but pitch 2 still constitutes the crux. We also felt the route is worth 3 stars.
Hey Steve,
Please don’t forget that I climbed what is the second pitch of Mirror Mirror back in 1988 when we climbed The Terrorist. I have never forgiven you for describing a bogus second pitch for that route in the last guide.
About time you give credit where credit’s due.