Fell & Rock Climbing Club

The Description in the 2013 guidebook on page 168 is misleading. Top of pitch one it says “Belay on the giant flake” The giant flake is unsuitable as a belay instead there is a large embedded flake on the ledge that does makes a good belay. Then for pitch 2 it says “From the top of the Flake move rightwards and climb up”. If you do this off the embedded flake it is not very pleasant, with no protection and difficult climbing. If you climb off the true ‘Giant Flake’ all is well and you even get a runner. For pitch four the description gives no indiaction of when to stop climbing up or where to start the descent.
My suggested description would be as follows:
1 18m Climb the steep rib on good holds until a short traverese left enables the top the wide crack to be gained by a tricky move. Continue straight up via a corner to a good ledge where there is a large embedded flake for a belay.
2 15m To the left there is a giant flake with a pillar in front. Climb to the top of the giant flake. From here move rightwards and climb up to a mantle-shelf. Above here a traverese left under the overhang leads around the arete to a stance on top of a pedestal in the corner below a diagonal crack.
3 15m Step down and traverse horizontally across the wall on the right to the arete above the overhang. Follow the arete, in fine position, to a good ledge with a large spike belay. (The diagonal Crack above the belay can be climbed but is not as satisfying).
4 42m Climb onto a rickety flake and continue up a series of slabs separated by steeper trickier steps, until a grass ramp is seen descending on the right. Belay on the ledge at the top of this ramp.
Descent: Descend the ramp and traverse the hillside, passing above the top of a gully. Climb over a fence by a stile and continue traversing to cross another gully. Descend the far side of this gully until a path is met that leads back to Raven Crag.