In dry conditions this is a very good route, with only a short section of vegetation to climb, the top slab is exceptionally good and potentially quite exciting for a V Diff leader. In wet conditions it is probably a nightmare.
I found a number of problems with the description in the 2013 guidebook, page 18.
P1. I didn’t find the ‘flake Pinnacle’ mentioned in the guidebook, despite looking hard. There is however a flat stance just below the top.
P2. From here easy climbing leads to a ledge, where it is best to turn sharp left and climb steeply up vegetation to a good flake belay below Rectangular Slab.
P3 The grass ledge is not 8m to the left but 3m left and 5m up.
P5 To ‘ascend the corner-crack’ would be very difficult indeed! Instead climb up a crack slightly right of the corner and then step left onto the top of the flake. The previous two guidebooks described this better! An example of guidebook writers changing the description, only to make it worse! Unfortunately a very common phenomenon.
I think it would be appropriate to give some indication of how to finish. Especially as the route is likely to be acsended by V Diff or Severe leaders, who tend to be less experienced.
Three Options:
1) Scramble up leftwards, then to the right for one ropelength (50m) to reach the top of the crag.
2) Climb the unprotected slab above and then move around to the left. From here scramble to the top of the crag.
3) Walk left into the upper fault-line of Gwynne’s Chimney. Follow this to the top of the crag.
Route Feedback: Cook's Tour
Posted by: Ken Daykin, 07.06.2024