Middlefell Buttress: Curtain Wall.
This route used to be graded MS (1999 guidebook) and now D (2013 guidebook). I think it should be graded VDiff. The latest guide book describes the route as one 20m pitch. However, we found it to be two pitches, both have interesting climbing, on very rough rock, that add value to an ascent of Middlefell Buttress. The first pitch is a similar standard to Middlefell Buttress but is not well protected. The second pitch is good, steep climbing and feels like V Diff to me. There is a belay ledge between the two pitches and I stopped there because of rope drag and the steep appearance of the pitch ahead.
Suggested description: Curtain Wall D/VD 40m.
Above and right of the finish to Middlefell Buttress is a fine looking slab of rough rock. Actually the true left wall of Raven Crag Gully.
1 20m. Climb the rough slab, left to right (poor protection) and the nose above to reach a block belay on a ledge.
2) 20m. Climb the centre of the fine wall above the belay, moving left then right to find the best holds. Small block belay at the top if you sit down to use it and nut in wall behind.
Descent/continuation to Gimmer Crag.
Walk up the hillside above heading for a prominent rock outcrop. A broad gully on the right of this will lead you up to the path that comes up Dungeon Gill and is heading for the Langdale Pikes and Gimmer Crag. To decend to the valley: From just below the prominent rock outcrop mentioned above traverse rightwards on a vague path which crosses scree and heads towards the above mentioned Dungeon Gill path.
I think that more should be made of this continuation in the next Langdale or Selected Guide. Many parties climb Middlefell Buttress and then depart the crag. By Starting at Stickle Barn and walking to Middlefell Buttress and then ascending both Middlefell Buttress and Curtain Wall before walking back to Stickle Barn, a fine mountaineering outing is to be had. The advantages of following this extension are: it starts at a much larger car park, it adds a further two quality pitches, avoids the eroded and unpleasant traditional descent and offers a choice of two bars for a post-climb drink!
Photo: Max Biden
A variety of ways can be found up the two parts of Curtain Wall at a variety of grades from D to MS. Is it really 40 m high? Maybe including the grassy section between the two parts. Makes a worthwhile extension to Middlefell Buttress and by descending to Stickle Barn/New DG avoids the unpleasant descent in and out of Middlefell Gully.
Done this way it would make a nice ‘featured’ route in LDR 3 and point toawards a nice mountaineering day out. Max Biden has suggested to me that the day can be continued up Harrison Stickle taking in Harristickorner and Spillikin Ridge. These can be reached via a scramble on Thorn Crag.