Comment from a friend: “Did Fools Paradise last night for the first time in about 20 years. The ants are still there plus many large scary blocks that you sort of stay to the side of but are perched above the third belay. It looks like the entire top chimney pitch came down and half of it is hanging onto the cliff below. I’d not recommend it to family or friends!”
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Hi Stephen. Do we know if this refers to the original finish, or the Kaleidoscope finish in the current Borrowdale guidebook?
I climbed Fool’s Paradise a few weeks ago with Nick Wharton to check the state of the route out after this report. We stuck to the “true” line and we deffo agreed that the route is absolutely fine! And still very good at the grade, i.e. no change. Yes it’s spicy, with a few wobbly blocks. But it is nothing like the death trap implied.
Treat it with care (as with any trad route really!) and it’s a great adventure!