BEWARE A large hold broke off the top of the lower arete narrowly missing both falling climber and belayer. Further rubbish was removed by abseil along with another large loose block just above the ledge. Both holds had been partly glued to hold in place but this was inadequate given the size of holds and fragile quality of the rock. Many other routes on the crag have had holds glued to help hold in place but this is not always effective as the above episode shows.
Beware? Runestone has plenty of dubious rock, sometimes glued, sometimes not. It also has some very good climbing and is well bolted. If that’s not for you, maybe best to climb elsewhere?
Pete is absolutely right. A huge amount of time energy and money has been invested into the further development of Runestone as a popular and accessible venue which is being enjoyed and recognised by large numbers of climbers.
Hundreds of hours have been spent cleaning new routes and removing loose rock – it is not always possible to remove every last suspect piece of rock.
Such a shame that some people are all to quick to be critical – maybe best to find somewhere else to climb.
I would agree with that.
It is a Quarry and first ascentionists do as much as possible to clean up routes.
Quarries and also crags are not stable and stuff happens. Climbers need to be aware of that “outside world”.
Wearing a helmet is a start !!
I am well aware of the nature, excitement and dangers of climbing on slate.
My intention was to make future ascentionists of this route aware that holds had broken off and that there may still be loose rock and possible change of grade.
Regarding glued holds, which are not mentioned in the guide or FRCC crag download, my comments were to advise other climbers that they exist and that it does not guarantee the holds are therefore secure.
Only trying to be helpful to fellow climbers!
Helmets, yes good advice Ron. Need to let those pictured in the crag download know. Still free choice though.