At Castle Rock of Triermain I, along with a couple of others, have recently cleaned off and “recovered” the original Via Media as described in earlier guidebooks. I believe it was, and is again, a splendid fairly easy climb (Very Difficult, maybe Severe) on good rough rock, with a steep exciting finish on good holds. Best done in two pitches, along with Yew Tree Climb, it is great for confident new leaders, good protection available I would also venture the opinion that the steep crack taken by the direct variation is a full VS 4c.
A description might read as follows
Pitch 1. 33 Metres. Ascend the steep rib on good holds then the slabs above to a narrow ledge. Traverse left, ascend a short corner to a large ledge and tree belay.
Pitch 2 12 metres. Traverse right to the junction with the direct route, then steeply to the top
Route Feedback: Via Media
Posted by: Phil Swainson, 17.10.2024