This direct version of the Variation Start to Savage Gully has a steep and strenuous crux section, though thankfully it is soon over. Start as for North Climb.
1 – 2 35m. Follow Pitches 1 and 2 of North Climb to the foot of Twisting Chimney.
3 35m (5c). Drop down a little and move left up slabs to below a steep crack, the left-hand of two. After a hard start, climb this for 10 metres to a ledge (the Variation Start goes right here and up a groove). Make a series of sustained moves up steep rock above until a pull out left brings a welcome rest. Climb to the top of the rib and belay in a recess below a wide crack.
4 14m (5a). Step down and move left onto a rib. Tenuous moves up this lead back up right to above the wide crack. Follow the broken groove to belay below a pillar under the wide undercut final chimney of Savage Gully.
5 20m (5b). Drop down a little, traverse right, and step across to a jagged crack in the wall. Climb this (part of the Girdle) to a ledge below a detached flake, the top of which forms the Nose Traverse of North Climb. Jam or layback up the flake and mantel onto its top (resisting the temptation to step right!), then make the last moves of the Nose.
