This straight as a die line gives excellent climbing on superb rock throughout: only the fact that it is escapable at several points means it is not worth more stars. Start immediately right of the start of New West Climb, at the base of a huge pale boulder lying on the scree.
1 18m (4c). Climb the rib and wall direct to an easy angled slab. Go up this and avoid the grass ahead by a short rib on the right, then step left to a spike belay on New West Climb.
2 42m (5a). A bold pitch. The crux has an excellent runner at the start but the easier climbing above is very run out. Climb the short chimney of New West Climb above then follow the crack above (The South-West-by-West Climb) until it steepens and The South-West-by-West Climb goes up left. Launch directly up the continuation crack to gain a good ledge, climb up into a hollow and pull over a bulge. A slim right facing groove above leads to easier ground and a belay on the left on the pile of blocks on New West Climb.
3 20m (5a). Traverse back right 2m and then climb directly up pleasant slabs. Above, a thin crack runs up the slab just left of a mossy streak: follow the crack direct to the top with increasing difficulty.
Photos: (1) The climb takes the central yellow line. (2) Jonathan Hughes on the crux of p1. (3) Tony Daly on the long run out section above the crux on p2. (4) Jonathan Hughes discovering the sting in the tail of p3. All photos: Stephen Reid.
Should have 1 star.
The climber in photo 4 is Jonathan Hughes, not Tony Daly.