This prominent but hidden cleft splits the East Face and runs from near the top of Walker’s Gully to the summit of High Man. It gives strenuous and awkward but well protected climbing (cams and wires).
Approach by descending the Walker’s Gully scree funnel, round the lowest rocks of The Curtain, and then scramble up into its base.
1 45m (5). Starting from near the back of the gully, climb the stepped scoop and right-slanting slim groove in the left wall with increasing difficulty to gain a narrow snow ledge. Move right and squirm up a short chockstone chimney to emerge onto an easy snow slope. Christmas tree belay.
2 35m (4). As for the humorously dubbed Slab and Notch Easy Way. Scramble up snow to a short troublesome chockstone chimney. This leads to a hard move out leftwards which lands one at a junction with Slab and Notch. Continue straight up the gully to a good flake belay.
Photos: 1 Stephen Reid on pitch 1 (Photo Dave Henchliffe), 2 Dave Henchliffe on pitch 2 (Photo Stephen Reid), 3 Diagram of known winter routes on the SE Face of High Man (Photo Stephen Reid).
The Great Chimney 80m V 5 ☆
Posted by: Stephen Reid, 21.01.202417.01.2024, SJH Reid, DR Henchliffe (alt)