The Secret Garden 45m MVS 4b ☆
Posted by: Stephen Reid, 02.05.202101.05.2021, SJH Reid, JA Daly A fine pitch with an alpine feel; ie spooky rock and bags of exposure. Large cams are useful.
Start as for Kipper’s Chimney. Make one move up Kipper’s Chimney, grasp a small spike on the left, and swing left round the corner to a hidden ledge. Awkward moves lead up right, then move back left to a massive hollow flake. Climb across this to the right and then go straight up until an obvious traverse leftwards leads up to ledges. Follow the corner, avoiding steep grass by a little slab on the left, to a thrutch up the finishing corner-crack.
The picture shows Stephen Reid moving left at the start of the route. Photo: Tony Daly.