A direct eliminate line on excellent rock.
Start in a grassy bay up and left of the start of Rib and Slab Climb and immediately right of Cheek, at a short detached pillar with a block on it.
1 45m (5a). From the top of the block, climb a groove and wide shallow crack 1m right of the groove of Cheek and continue up the more sustained groove above which bends right and peters out. At that point, traverse boldly right 3m and pull up the wall. Climb more easily up the centre of the slab above to a belay on New West Climb just before it traverses left.
2 15m (5b). Just up left is a steep groove (Hawkeye). Make a couple of moves up this to gear then bridge out onto the slim buttress on the right and climb directly up it, crossing the upper traverse of New West Climb and belaying in a grassy groove just to the left.
3 30m (5b). The pitch that put the Wild in the route name! The soaring sinuous arête on the right is followed, first on the right, then on the left, to a narrow foot ledge where gear and holds in the groove of South-West by West Climb allow hard fingery moves back right to the arête which is then followed more easily to the top. This is all continuously technical with only adequate protection.
Pitch 2 Variation 2023 May 29 – SJH Reid, P Winterbottom, (5a). From the first gear, it is also possible to traverse the slim buttress rightwards and round into a groove on South-West by West Climb before moving back up and left, but this is not as good.
Photos: 1. The line of Wild West, 2. Peter Winterbottom on pitch 1, 3. Peter Winterbottom on pitch 3 (Photo 1 by Peter Winterbottom, others by Stephen Reid).
Wild West 90m E2 5b ☆☆
Posted by: Stephen Reid, 01.06.202329.05.2023, P Winterbottom, SJH Reid (alternate leads)
Interesting clip of Yellow in 1st runner, Pitch 1. Only jealous! Well done lads.