An eliminate based on Gomorrah and, although rather too close to that route at times, the main two pitches give good climbing on excellent rock. Low in the grade.
1 30m (4b). The Direct Start to Gomorrah: as for Vandal, follow the grassy corner to a stance beneath the roof (possible belay) or better, follow the ordinary start but trend right to the same point. Move left up a slab and ascend the groove over a slight bulge. Continue up left to join Gomorrah pitch 2 and follow this traverse a few metres rightwards to belay at a pair of stacked blocks.
2 15m (5a). Follow a meandering crack up the wall above the blocks until forced to stride right onto the rib. Move up and back left into a short groove which leads to the stance under the roof on Gomorrah.
3 35m (5a). Traverse 2m left and follow a blind crack up the wall and through a bulge to a slab. Move up and left to a steep arete and climb this on its left side to the top. This is all quite run out, but the crux bulge can be protected with runners in the groove of Gomorrah.
The photos show Ross Jervis (in purple) leading pitch 2 and Stephen Reid (in red) leading pitch 3.
Zoar 80m HVS 5a ☆
Posted by: Stephen Reid, 09.05.202304.05.2023, SJH Reid, R Jervis (alt)