Rock Climbing and Walking in Donegal
Much of the climbing is single pitch although there is a good range of multi-pitch climbs mainly on the mountain crags. The rock is a mix of sandstone & granite. There are three main concentrations of climbing. The first is the Peninsula west of Killybeg out to Malin Bay which has a few sea cliffs offering reasonable access.
The second area comprises the islands of Arranmore, Cruit, Owey, Gola, Umfin & Tory. There is a road bridge to Cruit but the others require ferry access.
The third area includes the inland cliffs of Lough Belshade & the Eglish Valley. a short distance north of Donegal Town. Further north are the Poison Glen & Bingorms. All of these cliffs offer a wide range of climbs, many multi pitch. As these are in the mountains weather will be a factor.
All of the areas have a good range of climbs at most standards. But sea cliff climbing has its challenges!
Travel arrangements –
– Ferry from Cairnryan to Larne/Belfast or Liverpool to Belfast. Check P&O & Stenna ferries. Then travel across to Donegal via Derry.
– Both Irish Ferries & P&O sail from Holyhead to Dublin
– There are flights from various UK airports to both Belfast & Dublin then hire a car drive across to Donegal.
– There is an airport in Donegal north of Dungloe (near Gola and Cruit Islands) – with flights from Glasgow and Dublin
– Travel costs are reasonably high so liaising on cars etc. would be sensible.
Gear –
– Walking: The usual equipment should be fine
– Climbing: A normal rack suitable for sea cliffs so add a few extra bits in for belays. An abseil rope will be useful & rope protectors.
– Camping: Usual equipment. Irish sites often have a covered open access cooking area,
Covid –
– FRCC Members should check the latest club guidance at https://www.frcc.co.uk/covid-update/
– Everyone coming on the trip should check guidance from the Government of Southern Ireland available at Ireland travel advice – GOV.UK (www.gov.uk)
Venue
Initial plan to head to the Derrylahan campsite at Kilcar west of Donegal Town & Killybeg contact +353 (0)74 9738447 email Derrylahan@eircom.net. There is a kitchen area to cook in plus showers & toilets etc. Cost around 10 Euros pppn. Campervans are welcome. The Hostel has closed permenantly due to Covid. There are family rooms providing sleeping for 6 people. The owner advises that it is unlikely to be very busy in June so firm booking can be made near the time.
To visit the islands of Cruit etc it’s probably best to relocate as it is a one & a half hour drive from Kilcar. The climbing guide indicates wild camping is possible on Cruit island but there are no facilities. There is a campsite a few miles to the east which may be a better option – www.sleepyhollows.ie +353 (0)852552852 – Nicola McKinlay 0035374 9548272 email hello@sleepyhollows.ie. This is close to where the Clannad folk group originated. It opens at Easter.
Gola Island appears well worth a visit & requires ferry access. It would seem best to camp there for a few nights & liaise with the ferry man.
There is the option of spending a few nights at either Fairhead or in the Mourne Mountains on the way back.
Dates
Saturday 11th June – Saturday 25th June. Obvious individual flexibility either side of these dates
If you would like to join the Meet please contact the coordinator with an indication of the dates you expect to be there. State if you would like to link with others for transport & where you are based which will help to coordinate things.
Coordinator
Andy Dunhill
Coordinator email and phone number
dunhillandy3@gmail.com and telephone Home 01434 682018 or Mobile 07766 256758. WhatsApp used
Additional notes
Useful publications
Climbing Guidebooks
– Rock climbing in Donegal (Mountaineering Ireland) 2015. Updates can be found at www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal
– Rock Climbing in Ireland (Selective guide) – David Flanagan
Maps – OS Discovery series
– 1 (Coastal area round Gola)
– 10 (Area around Slieve League)
– 11 (Blue Stack Mountains)
Walking Guidebooks
– Donegal, Sligo & Leitrim: A Walking Guide (Walking Guides) by Adrian Hendroff
– The Mountains of Ireland: Cicerone by Paddy Dillon
– Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way: A Walking Guide by Helen Fairburn
– This website seems to be useful https://www.theirelandwalkingguide.com/